12-Hydroxystearic Acid ●
TL;DR. This ingredient is primarily a structuring and thickening agent for anhydrous and emulsion systems. It helps form firm gels, sticks, balms, and waxy textures while improving suspension of pigments or powders.
What does 12-Hydroxystearic Acid do in a cosmetic formula?
This ingredient is primarily a structuring and thickening agent for anhydrous and emulsion systems. It helps form firm gels, sticks, balms, and waxy textures while improving suspension of pigments or powders.
Is 12-Hydroxystearic Acid clean?
From a clean beauty perspective, it is generally well-tolerated and has little restricted-list friction. Sensitization is not a common concern, though any fatty acid structurant can feel heavy or occlusive in formulas built for very light skin feel.
Is 12-Hydroxystearic Acid sustainable?
This material is commonly made from castor oil, a renewable plant-derived feedstock. It is expected to be readily biodegradable and is not associated with environmental persistence concerns.
Is 12-Hydroxystearic Acid COSMOS-approved?
It is generally compatible with COSMOS natural and organic standards when the feedstock and processing route meet the standard’s requirements. Its profile aligns well with Green Chemistry because it can come from renewable oil, uses relatively simple conversion chemistry, and has good biodegradability.
How does 12-Hydroxystearic Acid work chemically?
The molecule is a saturated C18 fatty acid bearing one hydroxyl group and one carboxylic acid group, which lets it build hydrogen-bonded networks in oils. It is a waxy solid with a melting point around the mid-70s °C, is water-insoluble, and is commonly used at low single-digit to around 10% levels depending on the desired gel strength or stick hardness.
Last updated 2026-05-16