Behenic Acid

TL;DR. This ingredient is primarily a fatty acid structurant and consistency builder. It thickens oils and emulsions, adds waxy body and slip, and can support emulsification in creams, balms, sticks, and hair conditioners.

What does Behenic Acid do in a cosmetic formula?

This ingredient is primarily a fatty acid structurant and consistency builder. It thickens oils and emulsions, adds waxy body and slip, and can support emulsification in creams, balms, sticks, and hair conditioners.

Is Behenic Acid clean?

From a clean-beauty perspective, it is generally well-tolerated, low in allergen concern, and not a common restricted-list issue. The main formulation watchout is skin feel, since it can add weight or waxiness at higher levels.

Is Behenic Acid sustainable?

This material is commonly derived from plant oils, though sourcing depends on the supplier and crop system. It is readily biodegradable and does not raise the persistence concerns associated with silicone or fluorinated film-formers.

Is Behenic Acid COSMOS-approved?

It is generally permitted in COSMOS-natural and COSMOS-organic formulas when the feedstock and processing meet the standard. Its fit with Green Chemistry is strong when plant-derived, because it is biodegradable, structurally simple, and can be made through standard fat-splitting or hydrolysis chemistry.

How does Behenic Acid work chemically?

The molecule is a straight-chain saturated carboxylic acid with 22 carbons, giving it a high melting point, low water solubility, and strong structuring behavior in anhydrous and emulsion systems. It is oxidation-stable compared with unsaturated fatty materials, typically used around 0.5% to 5% for texture and viscosity, and is usually melted into the oil phase during processing.

Last updated 2026-05-13