palmitoyl oligopeptide-78 ●
TL;DR. This ingredient is a lipidated peptide used as a skin-conditioning and signal-peptide active, most often in anti-aging formulas targeting the look of firmness, texture, and fine lines. The fatty tail helps improve compatibility with oil phases and skin-surface deposition.
What does palmitoyl oligopeptide-78 do in a cosmetic formula?
This ingredient is a lipidated peptide used as a skin-conditioning and signal-peptide active, most often in anti-aging formulas targeting the look of firmness, texture, and fine lines. The fatty tail helps improve compatibility with oil phases and skin-surface deposition.
Is palmitoyl oligopeptide-78 clean?
From a clean-beauty perspective, it is generally viewed as a low-use synthetic active with low expected irritation potential and no broad restricted-list profile. The main caveat is limited public safety and environmental data compared with older cosmetic staples.
Is palmitoyl oligopeptide-78 sustainable?
This material is typically made by synthetic peptide chemistry and coupled to a fatty acid chain that may come from palm, coconut, or other vegetable feedstocks, depending on supplier sourcing. Biodegradation is expected to involve peptide-bond breakdown and fatty-acid metabolism, but public ready-biodegradability data are limited.
Is palmitoyl oligopeptide-78 COSMOS-approved?
It is not a straightforward COSMOS-organic fit because it is usually produced through synthetic peptide processing, and acceptance would depend on supplier documentation, origin, and manufacturing route. From a Green Chemistry perspective, its very low use level is favorable, while protecting-group chemistry, specialty solvents, and uncertain feedstock traceability are the main compromises.
How does palmitoyl oligopeptide-78 work chemically?
The molecule is an amphiphilic lipopeptide, combining a short amino-acid sequence with a C16 fatty chain to improve skin affinity and formulation compatibility. It is typically used at very low active levels in serums and creams, and peptide stability is generally best in mild aqueous systems rather than strongly acidic, strongly alkaline, or highly oxidizing formulas.
Last updated 2026-05-13