PHYTOSTERYLOCTYLDODECYL ­LAUROYL ­GLUTAMATE

TL;DR. This ingredient is a lipidic emollient and skin-conditioning agent that helps improve cushion, slip, and moisture retention. It is often used to support barrier feel in creams, balms, lip products, and other anhydrous or emulsion formats.

What does PHYTOSTERYLOCTYLDODECYL ­LAUROYL ­GLUTAMATE do in a cosmetic formula?

This ingredient is a lipidic emollient and skin-conditioning agent that helps improve cushion, slip, and moisture retention. It is often used to support barrier feel in creams, balms, lip products, and other anhydrous or emulsion formats.

Is PHYTOSTERYLOCTYLDODECYL ­LAUROYL ­GLUTAMATE clean?

From a clean-beauty perspective, it is generally well tolerated and does not sit on the common restricted lists that focus on preservatives, fragrance allergens, silicones, or certain UV filters. The main review point is sourcing and certification, since its inputs can vary by supplier.

Is PHYTOSTERYLOCTYLDODECYL ­LAUROYL ­GLUTAMATE sustainable?

This material is typically made from plant-derived sterols, fatty alcohol, and an amino-acid-based lipid building block, so it has a more renewable profile than many purely petrochemical emollients. Its ester structure is expected to be more biodegradable than highly persistent silicone or fluorinated materials, with palm-related sourcing worth confirming where fatty chains are involved.

Is PHYTOSTERYLOCTYLDODECYL ­LAUROYL ­GLUTAMATE COSMOS-approved?

It can be permitted under COSMOS-natural and COSMOS-organic formulas when produced from allowed feedstocks using accepted esterification chemistry, though supplier certification should be checked. Its Green Chemistry fit is strongest when renewable inputs, traceable fatty chains, and low-residue processing are documented.

How does PHYTOSTERYLOCTYLDODECYL ­LAUROYL ­GLUTAMATE work chemically?

The molecule is a bulky amphiphilic ester built from a sterol-like lipophilic group, a branched fatty alcohol group, and an acyl amino acid segment, giving it both skin-lipid affinity and good oil-phase compatibility. It is commonly used around 0.1 to 5% in emulsions and can be used higher in balms or sticks, where it helps structure the oil phase and improve pigment or wax feel.

Last updated 2026-05-13