Polysorbate 20 ND ●
TL;DR. It is a nonionic solubilizer and emulsifier, most often used to disperse fragrance oils, essential oils, and small amounts of oil-soluble actives into water-based formulas.
What does Polysorbate 20 ND do in a cosmetic formula?
It is a nonionic solubilizer and emulsifier, most often used to disperse fragrance oils, essential oils, and small amounts of oil-soluble actives into water-based formulas.
Is Polysorbate 20 ND clean?
Clean-beauty standards often flag it because it is ethoxylated, which creates a need to control residual ethylene oxide and 1,4-dioxane. When well purified, it is generally low-irritation, but it carries more restricted-list friction than simple plant oils, fatty alcohols, or glycerin.
Is Polysorbate 20 ND sustainable?
It is typically made from a mix of renewable fatty feedstock, a sugar-derived core, and petrochemical-derived polyether units. It is generally biodegradable, but its ethoxylated manufacturing route and fossil-derived input give it a weaker sustainability profile than simpler naturally derived emulsifiers.
Is Polysorbate 20 ND COSMOS-approved?
It is generally not permitted in COSMOS-natural or COSMOS-organic products because ethoxylation is outside the allowed processing rules. From a Green Chemistry view, biodegradability is a plus, while petrochemical input, impurity-control needs, and relatively intensive processing are drawbacks.
How does Polysorbate 20 ND work chemically?
The molecule is a nonionic amphiphile with a fatty-acid ester segment attached to a sugar-derived core and multiple polyether chains, giving it a high HLB around 16 to 17 and strong oil-in-water solubilizing behavior. Typical use is about 0.1 to 5% depending on the oil load, and it is usually stable across mildly acidic to neutral cosmetic pH, though strong acids, strong bases, and oxidative conditions can cleave ester bonds or degrade fragrance components.
Last updated 2026-08-17